Surf the pages and immerse yourself in tales where the essence of surf culture rides high.
Experience the thrill of towering waves and the calm of ocean zen with our curated surf-inspired reads, bridging adrenaline and serenity.
Get ready to carve through the best surfing stories ever told.
Best Surfing Books:
- Barbarian Days – A Surfing Life
- The History of Surfing
- Surf is Where You Find It
- The Wave – In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean
- Saltwater Buddha – A Surfer’s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
- Caught Inside – A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast
- The Code – The Power of ‘I Will’
- Surf Science – An Introduction to Waves for Surfing
- Surf Craft – Design and the Culture of Board Riding
- Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell – A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
- West of Jesus – Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief
- Kook – What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
Table of Contents
- #1 Barbarian Days – A Surfing Life
- #2 The History of Surfing
- #3 Surf is Where You Find It
- #4 The Wave – In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean
- #5 Saltwater Buddha – A Surfer’s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
- #6 Caught Inside – A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast
- #7 The Code – The Power of ‘I Will’
- #8 Surf Science – An Introduction to Waves for Surfing
- #9 Surf Craft – Design and the Culture of Board Riding
- #10 Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell – A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
- #11 West of Jesus – Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief
- #12 Kook – What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
- FAQ
#1 Barbarian Days – A Surfing Life
- ✍️ Author: William Finnegan
- 📆 Year Published: 2015
- 📘 Genre: Biographies and Autobiographies, Fiction and Literature
Explore the compelling odyssey of a life dedicated to surfing in “Barbarian Days – A Surfing Life.” This Pulitzer Prize-winning memoir by William Finnegan charts his experiences from young wave-chaser to accomplished journalist, all threaded through with a deep passion for surfing.
The book offers a rare insight into surf culture, capturing the allure of the sport with lyrical precision and the raw adventure that compels surfers to return to the sea’s embrace time and again. It’s a narrative rich in travel, character, and the quest for the perfect wave, sure to resonate with surfers and seekers alike.
#2 The History of Surfing
- ✍️ Author: Matt Warshaw
- 📆 Year Published: 2010
- 📘 Genre: History
Immerse yourself in “The History of Surfing,” an extensive chronicle that presents a definitive take on the cultural and sporting phenomenon of surfing, by the acclaimed surf historian Matt Warshaw. This comprehensive tome spans ancient Polynesian lore right up to the modern-day surf industry, covering every significant event, personality, and wave that has shaped surfing as we know it.
Warshaw’s meticulous research and engaging prose offer not just a history, but the feeling of the ocean and the spirit that has driven wave riders for centuries. A treasure for anyone interested in the complete saga of surfing.
#3 Surf is Where You Find It
- ✍️ Author: Gerry Lopez
- 📆 Year Published: 2008
- 📘 Genre: Biographies and Autobiographies, Strategy and Coaching
Join Gerry Lopez, the legendary Pipeline Master, in “Surf is Where You Find It,” where he shares his profound wisdom and the countless stories garnered from a lifetime of surfing. In this collection of autobiographical essays, Lopez reflects on the lessons learned from the sea, emphasizing adaptability and respect for the ocean.
The book is not just an insight into strategy and craft but also an embodiment of surfing philosophy, capturing the soulful rhythm of life that only chasing waves can provide. A powerful read for surf enthusiasts and soul-searchers trekking through life’s swells and breaks.
#4 The Wave – In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks, and Giants of the Ocean
- ✍️ Author: Susan Casey
- 📆 Year Published: 2010
- 📘 Genre: History, Fiction and Literature
In “The Wave,” author Susan Casey takes readers on a thrilling ride to understand the mammoths of the sea—rogue waves, freak waves, and the fabled hundred-foot wave—and those who seek them. Meshing maritime science with the sheer passion of surfers like Laird Hamilton, who challenge the ocean’s furor, the book oscillates between gripping adventure and the cutting edge of oceanography.
Casey’s investigative journey offers a glimpse into the fascination and respect for the ocean’s raw power, a must-read for anyone captivated by the mysteries and dangers lurking beneath the surface.
#5 Saltwater Buddha – A Surfer’s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea
- ✍️ Author: Jaimal Yogis
- 📆 Year Published: 2009
- 📘 Genre: Biographies and Autobiographies, Fiction and Literature
In “Saltwater Buddha,” Jaimal Yogis recounts his journey from a misguided youth to finding clarity atop his surfboard. This meditative memoir swims through the parallels between surfing and the pursuit of Zen, revealing how the search for the perfect wave can lead to profound insights.
Yogis’s narrative is a tranquil glide over the waves of personal growth, spiritual fulfillment, and the intertwining of surf culture with the quest for enlightenment. The book is a serene paddle into the essence of surfing as both a sport and a way of life, beckoning readers to find their own Zen on the sea.
#6 Caught Inside – A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast
- ✍️ Author: Daniel Duane
- 📆 Year Published; 1996
- 📘 Genre: Biographies and Autobiographies, Fiction and Literature
“Caught Inside – A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast” is Daniel Duane’s personal account of a year spent immersed in the Northern California surf culture. A vivid narrative that straddles between a love letter to surfing and a coming-of-age tale, the book captures the essence of the coastal lifestyle.
Duane’s experiences reflect the deep connection between surfers and their environment, the unparalleled joy of riding waves, and the unique communities that form along the shoreline. It’s an introspective voyage marked by the ebb and flow of the Pacific Ocean and the transformative power of the surf.
#7 The Code – The Power of ‘I Will’
- ✍️ Author: Shaun Tomson and Patrick Moser
- 📆 Year Published: 2013
- 📘 Genre: Strategy and Coaching, Biographies and Autobiographies
“The Code – The Power of ‘I Will’” by Shaun Tomson, one of the world’s greatest surfers, shares the guiding principles that have shaped his life and surfing career. Partnering with Patrick Moser, Tomson offers a candid look at how the simple yet powerful phrase “I will” can affirm one’s commitment and bring about change.
This book transcends the realm of surfing, providing strategies to overcome challenges and achieve success. Coupled with personal stories from Tomson’s life, “The Code” serves as a motivational guide applicable to anyone needing inspiration on their path to personal fulfillment.
#8 Surf Science – An Introduction to Waves for Surfing
- ✍️ Author: Tony Butt and Paul Russell
- 📆 Year Published: 2004
- 📘 Genre: Fiction and Literature
Dive into “Surf Science – An Introduction to Waves for Surfing,” where seasoned oceanographers Tony Butt and Paul Russell demystify the physics behind surfing’s most enticing draw – the waves themselves. This enlightening book simplifies the complex interplay of wind, tide, and seabed, providing surfers with a deeper understanding of what creates the rides they seek.
Whether you’re a seasoned pro or a novice curious about the science of wave formation, this book will enrich your knowledge and enhance your respect for the ocean’s power. It’s a blend of science and passion that will sharpen your approach to surfing.
#9 Surf Craft – Design and the Culture of Board Riding
- ✍️ Author: Richard Kenvin
- 📆 Year Published: 2014
- 📘 Genre: History, Fiction and Literature
“Surf Craft – Design and the Culture of Board Riding” by Richard Kenvin is a visually stunning exploration of surfboard design and its evolution within the surfing culture. This book not only examines the aesthetic and functional aspects of surf craft but also delves into the cultural impact of surfboard design history.
Kenvin sheds light on the work of pioneering surfboard builders, capturing the cross-pollination of ideas in the surfing world that has led to constant innovation. This read is a celebration of the artistry behind board riding, intriguing for surf aficionados and design enthusiasts alike.
#10 Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell – A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing
- ✍️ Author: Chas Smith
- 📆 Year Published: 2013
- 📘 Genre: Biographies and Autobiographies, Fiction and Literature
“Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell” is a provocative dive into the darker undercurrents of the surf paradise known as the North Shore of Hawaii. Journalist Chas Smith reveals a world far removed from the postcard images—a gritty realm of conflict, localism, and the high-stakes game of professional surfing.
This book is an unflinching look at the often untold stories that play out beneath the surface of one of the world’s most famed surfing destinations, balancing sharp wit with an insider’s insight. A compelling read for those looking to discover the true soul of surfing amidst its dichotomies.
#11 West of Jesus – Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief
- ✍️ Author: Steven Kotler
- 📆 Year Published: 2006
- 📘 Genre: Fiction and Literature
In “West of Jesus – Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief,” author Steven Kotler embarks on a personal journey to understand the spiritual aspect of surfing and the neurology behind transcendent experiences.
Weaving through anecdotal surf lore and cutting-edge science, Kotler probes the depths of belief, the human quest for meaning, and how the act of riding waves can resonate with other mystical experiences across cultures. A thought-provoking blend of philosophy and sport, this book is for those who surf not just for the physical thrill but for the larger questions it compels us to confront.
#12 Kook – What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
- ✍️ Author: Peter Heller
- 📆 Year Published: 2010
- 📘 Genre: Biographies and Autobiographies, Fiction and Literature
“Kook – What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave” by Peter Heller is a vibrant declaration of the transformative power of surfing. Heller, initially an outsider or ‘kook,’ documents his journey into the heart of surf culture, from a clumsy start to experiencing the consuming pursuit of the perfect wave.
Along the way, he learns about love, life, and confronting limitations. Through humor, poignancy, and exhilarating descriptions of the surf, this memoir captures the personal revolution that can happen when one fully immerses in the rhythm of the sea. It’s an ode to the art of learning and the paths we take to find ourselves.
FAQ
What are the best Surfing books of all time?
“Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life,” “The History of Surfing,” “The World Stormrider Guide,” “Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast,” and “Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing” are the best surfing books of all time. They offer a blend of memoir, history, travel, and science related to surfing.
What is the best Surfing book for adults?
“Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life” by William Finnegan is the best surfing book for adults, providing a detailed and personal account of the surfing lifestyle and passion.
What are the best books for Surfing fundamentals and strategy?
“Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing” and “The Complete Guide to Surfing Your Best” are the best books for surfing fundamentals and strategy, covering the technical aspects of wave dynamics and practical surfing techniques.
